Dino ,
French resort to test-tube truffles
Black truffles, emblem of France’s gastronomic exceptionalism, could soon start life in a laboratory instead of under the roots of ageing oak and hazelnut trees.
French scientists are planning to clone Périgord truffles, the pungent fungi known to connoisseurs as “black diamonds” and which can fetch up to €1,000 ($1,267, £860) a kilo.
To mark the start of the truffle season, the French region of Corrèze is to sign an accord today for a three-year project with Delpeyrat, which has been making truffle conserves since the 19th century, and STEF-TFE, a food transport company.
The goal is to unlock the secrets of what makes the black truffle so special – the soil, climate or trees – and, it is hoped, revive an endangered industry by producing a more consistent crop.
The project will involve culturing cloned truffles together with baby trees in test tubes until they form their crucial symbiotic relationship – a process that can take a year. Once established, pairs will be planted out to mature naturally.
Jacques Pebeyre, an octogenarian author and truffier known as France’s “truffle king”, is open to the idea that the initiative could be what the industry needs. His grandfather set up in the truffle trade in 1897, but declining interest is placing the business in jeopardy. “We are in peril – there’s no doubt of that,” said Mr Pebeyre. “There are fewer and fewer people willing to produce truffles. Young people prefer cereals.”
Jacques Chibois, owner and chef at the Michelin-starred Bastide Saint Antoine hotel and restaurant near Grasse in southern France, says the wild Périgord truffle was “exceptional” but, sadly, in short supply.
France produced 1,000 tonnes of black truffles a year at the beginning of the 20th century, but the figure has fallen to 40 to 50 tonnes.
Most of the crop is consumed domestically, along with imports of much cheaper truffles from China.
The domestic variety’s increasing rarity reflects the decline of French agriculture as well as the fungus’s mysterious growth pattern. Truffles are not so much grown as found. The trees are often at least 20 years old before truffles are sniffed out, usually by trained dogs.
The cloning experiment is the culmination of a decade-long dream for Hervé Covès, manager of the fruit and vegetables department of the Corrèze chamber of agriculture. He acknowledges that the idea of cloning truffles sounds frightening, especially to consumers in a country known for its opposition to bio-engineered foods.
But cloning is an ancient agricultural method that has nothing to do with genetic modification, he argues. And without new production methods, he fears, the French truffle industry will be dead by the end of the century.
Mr Pebeyre said: “I am not against helping nature. We need to know how good these truffles will be. In the end, it all depends on that.”